Direct Formula to Compute Wave Height and Angle at Incipient Breaking

Magnus Larson, Hoan Le Xuan, Hans Hanson

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

Abstract

The purpose of this technical note is to present a new formula to compute the incipient breaking wave properties based on a simplified solution of the wave energy flux conservation equation combined with Snell's law. The execution time and calculated results of the new formula were compared with those of the iterative method which is commonly used in coastal engineering calculations, including in shoreline response modeling. The new formula could be used instead of the iterative method to save calculation time for application in coastal engineering.
Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)119-122
JournalJournal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering
Volume136
Issue number2
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 2010

Subject classification (UKÄ)

  • Water Engineering

Free keywords

  • Iterative method
  • Wave condition
  • Wave energy flux
  • Wave properties
  • Breaking wave
  • Incipient breaking
  • New formula

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