Peasant in a Bottle: Infrastructures of Containment for an Italian Wine Cooperative

On the market for quality wine, quality is generally defined by the liquid’s connection to a time, space, and person(s) of origin. This connection is achieved through material-discursive versions of terroir. While the consequences of this aesthetic regime have been well-studied, little attention has been given to the artefact through which the connection is enacted: the bottle. This paper, based on fieldwork with small-scale wine producers in Italy, asks what difference it makes for these artisanal producers to bottle their wine themselves. The analysis hones in on the bottle as a container embedded within an infrastructure of containment, and emphasises how the bottle as infrastructure re-orders the space–time of circulation. The result has implications for container-mediated processes of production-exchange-consumption everywhere.