The Upright Tiara of the Persian King

This paper examines a piece ofheadgear, usually referred to in modern literature as a Phrygian or Persian cap, but variously described astiara, kurbasiaor kidaris/kitarisin the ancient sources. According to Greek texts only the Persian king had the right to wear the headgearin an upright position, usually referred to as tiara orthé. The cap was part of the so-called Median riding dress, and was worn together with trousers, a sleeved garment and akandys, i.e. a cloak used as a mantle. On the basis of literary sources and iconographic evidenceit is suggested that tiara orthéreferred to the attached hood of akandys, or alternativelyanother upper garment, in an upraised position, i.e.when it was worn upon the head. Xenophon, ourearliest andmost trustworthy sourceregarding the tiara orthé,explicitly wrotethat only the king may wear the tiaraupright, that is upon the head.